Week 27: Banos, Riobamba & Otavalo. Ecoudor

Banos is a gorgeous town surrounded by volcanos, mountains and waterfalls. There are lots of action sports you can do here zip lining, canyoning and rafting. Having done these before I opted for the reliable rothar. I rented a bike to cycle the famous ruta de la cascadas where you stop off at lots of different waterfalls. It was so good to be back on the bike after months. The first stop was to see “Cauldron of the Devil”  an amazing waterfall in the Rio Verde area.  This waterfall was seriously impressive and you hike down to get to some gorgeous viewpoints. We got absolutely drenched  during the hike.

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Some of the waterfalls on rute de la cascadas
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The route down into the devil’s cauldron. It was almost impossible to take photos here because of the sprays from the waterfall

Afterwards I was the guts of 1/2 hour trying to unlock my bike. When I managed to unlock the bike it 100% was not mine it was a huge mans bike.  I have no idea how I managed to do it anyway I was secretly delira it was miles better than the ladies bike I started off with.

I continued on the stunning route viewing lots more waterfalls. I went as fair as Rio Negro which is the official start of the amazon and where most people start jungle treks. I got lost in the most amazing place and that’s where I stopped for lunch. A kind American found me and got me back on the main route. The route is almost entirely down hill on the way it’s so much fun as you are basically free-falling the whole way. The way home on the other hand is no easy task. For that reason most people  get the bus back with their bikes. I was urged not to cycle back saying it was too hard. When someone tells me I can’t do something it makes me want to do it more so the tough cycle home was happening regardless.

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Full of optimism for the cycle home

The uphills were torture but it was great to be back exercising as I’ve become pretty lazy lately. Carrying the backpack has become the new gym. I stopped off to buy some fruit and the lad felt so sorry for me that the oranges were on the house. A gent! I’ve noticed here whenever you say you are planning on walking or cycling somewhere the locals really try to discourage you! I asked him how long I had to go and he said 35km and I’d easily cover it in less than 1 hour. Now maybe he thought he was dealing with Lance Armstrong but a good  rule of thumb is never ask someone is South America how long left because there estimations of time are outrageous. The 1 hour turned into a torturous 3 1/2 hours. It was tough, nothing compared to the hellish ring of Kerry but then again nothing ever will be. But it was worth it, the sun shone on the way home and the views were gorgeous. Despite some mechanical bike issues en route home I managed to make it back to Banos before dark not feeling my arse. I treated myself to pizza and beer that night and slept for 12 hours. MAGICAL

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Views en route home in Banos
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The prettiest fruit stands selling only  fruits local to the amazon region
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The gent who gave me these mandarins on the house!

The iconic images of Banos’s are people on the swing (in a cool tree house). Most people opt for the bus up to the top and the hotel owner urged me not to walk that is was too tough. People here really hate exercising! The walk was rough I made it to some holy statue where I saw two kids and asked them how long left. They responded by saying no more than 10 minutes and that they were going in that direction too. Happy days, well not so happy days they’re ridiculous estimation of 10 minutes turned into 2 1/2 hours. Outrageous. Anyway the weather turned for the worst and there was a storm on top. Weather was really atrocious I mean it couldn’t have been worse. Sure you win some you lose some.  Luckily the swing was still operating and it was pretty cool being flung through the thundery clouds. I stupidly wore a dress so ended up flashing the poor chap pushing me. En route up I picked up a German and American teenager. The trek down in the storm was way too dangerous so we camped out at the top by the fire drinking the most delicious hot chocolates and eating empanadas.

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View of Banos
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The perfect day to wear a dress
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Casa del Arobol ,Banos

We hitched a ride  back with a party bus which included a visit to the local sweet factory! Banos is really famous for its sweet production to due the vast amount of  sugar cane in the area. The jelly sweets are made out of a local fruit (can’t remember name). Dinner that night was half a chicken carcass, potatoes and salad.

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Banos’s massive sugar cane industry

Next day off to Riobamba where I had a very good couch surfing with an eccentric man called Holger who has hosted 2,800 people he even has his mother hosting people. When I arrived he was in the middle of making homemade ravioli (my  favourite but unfortunately not for me). There isn’t much happening in Riobamba it’s a good base for climbing Chimborazo volcano (6,263m). Up until recently it is compulsory to go with a guide if you want to summit because apparently it’s quite dangerous. So I decided to trek up at far as 5,000 m which is free. There were only 3 us trekking and lucky me got stuck with the strangest Columbian man for the trek. He was giving out to me for wearing sun glasses because apparently I was blocking out the natural forces. He then was encouraging me to drink the water on rocks to help with the altitude sickness. I then told him I was sick and would prefer to walk alone no such luck the kind stranger insisted on staying with me. So lots of deep Spanish conversation were to be un avoided for the next few hours. Even the topic of aliens was covered. I needed a stiff drink  after listening to his rigmarole!

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Stunning views of Ecuador’s highest peak Chimborazo
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It was a baltic one

En route home to the crazy chef I got severely lost and ended up walking like a headless chicken for 2 hours. Luckily though, I found the most amazing Mexican restaurant where the owner was nice to me and told me I could spend all night there while I waited for my bus to Quito which was at 2 am. The people in Ecuador so far have been amazing. Next stop was  Otavalo which is known for its famous Saturday market. I arrived feeling/looking pretty rough having spent the night in the bus terminal. You forget about how tired you are when you are here the market is amazing you see the most amazing crafts and clothes. I loved it here.

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They have the most amazing clothes in Otavalo (and of course gold teeth)
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I asked this woman could I take her picture and she agreed only if I bought one of her tops. An excellent business woman
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I couldn’t get enough of this cutie
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A trip to Otavalo isn’t complete without buying one of Ecuador’s famous hats
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Cheese, Ice cream and fruit! I’ve seen it all

Just north of Otavalo there is the amazing Cotacchi Volcano. This was an amazing day. The hike is a 14km loop around the most stunning lake. I met a few grumpy Englishmen at the beginning and then after that I had the place to myself.  It is a crater at the foot of the volcano.  It is called Lago del Cuy or Guinea Pig Laguna because the islands resemble guinea pigs? After the hike I met a lovely guy who treated me to a traditional Ecuadorian snack of choclo (corn), toasted banana chips, onion, tomato and limes. This is eaten by all of the locals as a snack and its so delicious and only 50c. We had a hot fruit drink made out of a local fruit (can’t remember the name), maize and pineapple.

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Lago Del Cuy
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You can take a boat around the different islands
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All of this completely to myself!

Dinner that night was on the streets. It consisted of cow’s foot soup. Once I removed the cow’s foot it tasted delicious and had a lovely flavour of peanuts. The next thing was the star of the show I wasn’t even hungry but there was a little old woman selling bags of maize and cheese and the people couldn’t get enough of it so I had to try it. This was sensational and only 50c. The cheese melted into the maize and it was topped off with a spicy chili sauce. I could live off this stuff so good.

That night I was in one of my impulsive moods and when I got back to the hotel to collect my bag to leave for Quito I  started looking up flights to the Galapagos Islands.  And before I knew it I was booked onto a flight for the following morning. This place was never on my list because it’s so so expensive but every backpacker you meet says it’s really worth it. I think one of my better impulsive decisions. I didn’t sleep a wink with the excitement of it all. I CANNOT WAIT!!!

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