Week 26: Cachapoyas, Montanita & Banos. Peru & Ecuador.

I decided to stay in Cachapoyas longer than expected it’s such a gem of a place.  It is home to Gocta waterfall, classed as the third highest in the world at 771 m high. The highest in the world are Angel Falls in Venezuela and the second highest are Tugela Falls in South Africa. Claudia who I was couch surfing with is a guide in the area so took me to the non touristy trail (even though this entire area does not see many tourists…yet). This waterfall has been known to the locals for centuries but it was only in 2002 that they were discovered by a German tourist who noticed them on google maps . Crazy how many un discovered beauties are potentially still out there.

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There were the most stunning trees in this park
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View of Gocta from a distance
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Gocta up close

 Myself, Claudia and Tibet the dog headed off to Gocta. The route was stunning with hundreds or fruit and coffee trees and the best thing there wasn’t a sinner there. We hiked for about 5 hours uphill until you get to the top of the waterfall. The photo’s don’t even nearly justify this place it was spectacular.  As per usual I had a fall on top trying to get a picture because the water from the falls is so strong. Very sad a tourist died at these falls last year because he swam in a forbidden area. Beautiful yet dangerous place.

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Tibet to the rescue

After the highest point you descend to the bottom where you can swim, an incredible (albeit freezing) experience. Having the world’s third largest waterfall completely to yourself was one of my highlights of the trip so far. Next time I want to camp here I didn’t want to leave this stunning place.  Everyone needs to go here, seriously cool.

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Me at the base of Gocta waterfalls

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Myself and the legend dog Tibet
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Claudia and Tibet
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In my ellers
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Our swimming spot!

Fedo (the other Argentinian couch surfer) didn’t join us on this occasion and I was kind of glad. It transpired that Fedo has no money and hasn’t had a debit card for 9 months. He has been just couch surfing and occasionally going to Western Union. I’ve no idea how he has survived. Well actually I do…..he scabs off everyone else. So completely emphatising with someone loosing their card and having no money I lent him money. For breakfasts and lunches he was eating all of Claudia’s food (who was too nice to say anything) and soon enough all of my food. Now I was happy to share because I can’t physically carry all of  my food but he was taking it a step too far when he started eating my chocolate!! He got fed and watered for 1 week without spending a penny. I got annoyed when I saw him lashing into Claudia’s good  Italian olive oil and asking for the parmesan I wanted to knock him out with the cheese. Not even an utter of thanks, unbelievable. On my last night we went out for pisco sours as I wanted to thank Cluadia  little did I know I would be thanking Fedo too because once again he had no money!

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Beautiful Cachapoyas at sunset

A lesson to us all if you have no money you don’t go for pisco sour no matter how delicious they are!!!! Myself and Claudia had a ball together one of the best couch surfing experiences to date. We are both massive foodies so I have half promised to return to open up an Italian cafe with her in Cachapoyas. Our last dinner was probably the nicest food I’ve eaten in  6 months. An insane and extremely understated salad of; chicken, potatoes, lettuce, tomato, onions, avocado, cucumber, sunflower seeds, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, basil and huge chunks of parmesan, We calculated and the whole dish cost 1 euro in the local market. O mo dhia it was divine all it missed  was a large  glass of red. Dessert was this almond nought from Italy and ice cream and then off to the bus station to try to make my way to Ecuador.

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My send off at the bus station; Me, Claudia, Fedo and of course Tibet the amazing puppy

Peru has been amazing and I’m so glad I finished off in the north. I love the freedom of having absolutely no plans it’s the way to go you never know where your going to end up. The food in Peru has been a highlight with the stand outs being ceviche and just in general the food is so flavorsome and dirt cheap. If they could sort out their wine situation then we would be laughing (it’s sickingly sweet). Peru has it all ; beaches, jungle, desert and incredible trekking. It’s the third largest country in SA so 2 months here didn’t cover the half of it.  

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Hasta Luego Peru: I will be back!

The journey to Ecuador involved two night buses in a row so this was always going to be a rough one. The first one  was v v comfy but I didn’t sleep a wink with  excitement. I arrived in Chiclayo and had the day to kill and spend the last of my pesos. So no expenses spared I had a fabulous breakie of pineapple juice, mixed  exotic fruit salad with chia seed porridge and  brown bread with avocado, cheese and toms and excellent coffee (a rarity when backpacking).

Lunch was not so fabulous. Really sleep deprived and extremely hot ( I was wearing half the wardrobe and it was over 30 degrees). I researched this place a lot deciding to treat myself to Chiclayo’s most famous dish arroz con Pato (rice and duck). The restaurant was buzzing and packed with locals which is always a great sign. When my duck arrived it was a devastation. What it was, was a mountain of greasy rice and a lump of cold duck. The best thing about the dish was the side of onions and chilis.  I ordered a frozen Chica (typical Peruvian drink made out of maize). Anyway not one to waste anything I packed up the left over rice for the bus journey that night. I spent all of my remaining money on that muck, my most expensive meal in Peru.

The mauldy rice made the journey with me to Ecuador and we both endured the next night bus together. This bus was also v comfy Una you’ll be glad to know I splurged on the expensive ticket.  Once again I couldn’t sleep I think the smell of the duck and rice was nauseating me. When we arrived at the border  I was a complete disaster. I ended up queuing for 1 hour in the Peruvian que and didn’t notice there was a que especially for foreigners.   A kind lady pointed me in the right direction. I spent ages trying to find a pen to fill in the customs form when I eventually handed  it in  the Peruvian customs said they didn’t want it so I put it in the bin (naturally). I made my way back to the bus and before I knew there was a guard chasing after me. I forgot to go to the Ecuador customs (a minor detail). They needed the form I had put in the bin.  I then went back to the loo to try to find it  with the guard  escorting me But  to no avail, I filled out another and had the whole bus waiting for me . In my defense this whole operation was happening  at 3 am in the morning!

Anyway back on the bus we eventually made it to Guayaquil in Ecuador where I had to catch  yet another bus (only 3 hours) to Montanita. The beach! During this whole operation I managed to lose my greasy rice somewhere between Peru and Ecoudor I was raging having lugged it around for the past 2 days. When I arrived at the hostel I got stuck into a hammock and couldn’t move expect for food and loo breaks. I looked like  scene from a horror movie.  This was me for the next 3 days absolute bliss. Montanita is a party place and has gorgeous beaches and is a popular spot for surfing.  It is a little bit touristy for my liking but for a few days it was perfect. Swimming here was a little tough going because the waves are pretty crazy but it was still so good to be back in the water.

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Beautiful beaches in Montanita
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Sunsets in Ecuador
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First swim of 2018

One afternoon while walking in the town who do I find but my box of Peruvian rice and duck sitting on a hedge. I know a bit disgusting but I couldn’t leave it behind. We had been through  a lot together. So dinner that night was stir fried rice! I cooked the life out of it to kill any dodgy bacteria and it actually didn’t taste half bad! This is typical Gallagher behaviour and reminded me of my Uncle Joe; a lunatic but a legend.

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This was a resident at the hostel and popped up for meal times!

Next stop was Banos known as the gateway to the amazon. It started out as a bit of a disaster. I organised couch surfing with a guy. I firstly told him the wrong time because I thought the bus was 3 hours it turned out it was 10 hours (an easy mistake), the second major issue is there are apparently two Banos in Ecuador so idiot here ended up at the wrong Banos, So the poor lad was waiting for me at the bus station. Anyway potentially a blessing in disguise I ended up in a private room in a hotel for 7 dollars a night. A delightful change from my usual sleep set up!

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Road into Banos
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Banos’s main cathedral
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Banos’s is sugar cane obsessed. They absolutely love and live off sugar. Every street corner is selling a handmade candy called Melcocha. It is sickeningly sick
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